If you read surf reports (if not, try one out: Corpus Christi surf report) you might wonder what the heights mean. What’s a head high wave? Exactly how tall is that? And is that the height from the bottom of the ocean? What’s ankle high? Why would they even report an ankle high wave? If you’re wondering, you’ve come to the right place.

How Waves are Measured

Wave height on surf reports is measured simply by looking at the water and guesstimating the height of the wave as compared to the average person. The height is also guesstimated from the top of the water. For example, if you were to walk out in the water and it was waist high, and then the waves were so high that if you stood on the water (like, if you were standing on a surfboard) they would reach the top of your head, that would be head high.

Head High Waves

Most people would call those 8 ft waves. This is because if the water is up to your waist when you walk out in the water, that’s about 3 feet of water, give or take a foot. For the waves to reach your head while you stood on the water, they’d have to be about 5 feet high on top of the first 3 feet. That’s 8 feet, but to surfers, those are 5 foot waves. They would simply be called “head high waves.” Or: “Hey man, how’s the surf today?” “It’s head high! Get on it!”

Waist High Waves

Waist high waves are waves that would reach your waist if you were standing on the water. People who don’t surf would probably call them 6 foot waves.

Chest High Waves

Chest high means the waves would come up to your chest if you stood on top of the water.

Knee High Waves

Then there are knee high waves, which, of course, are waves that would come up to your knees if you were standing on the water. These could be decent for long boarding.

Ankle High Waves

Ankle high waves aren’t really good for anything but boogie boarding (which is fun!). On a day when the waves are ankle high, the surf report might say something like: Barelling ankle high surf, great waves for GI Joe!

Other Wave Heights

A lot of the time you’ll find that the surf report says a combination of these, such as:

• Knee to waist high
• Waist to chest high
• Chest to head high
• Head high and over

People come in all shapes and sizes, so these measurements are just really good guesses. The surf report is meant to give you a good idea of what to expect at the beach.

What to Expect from a Surf Report

Aside from telling you how high the waves are, the surf report should also tell you:

• How strong the current is and what direction it’s going
• How powerful the waves are
• The water temperature
• Anything important going on at sea, such as a hurricane on the way
• What to expect for waves for the rest of the day and the rest of the week and weekend
• Any news of jellyfish, sharks, or anything else related to your local surf spots
• A good surf report will even keep you informed of upcoming surf competitions
• The best surf reports are written before 8am. There really aren’t enough of these around.

Writing the Surf Report

So who walks out there on top of the water to find out how high the waves are? No one! The surf report is usually written by the surf shop owner, who drives down the beach before work, sipping his coffee. Or by the same guy after a 6:30am surf session known as dawn patrol. The surf report is usually just eye-balled. And sometimes they’re not what you would agree with. I’ve gone out to the beach on days when the surf report said the surf wasn’t very good, and ended up having a blast on my board.

If you’re not sure the surf report is correct or if you don’t have access to one, it never hurts to get wet and find out for yourself. If in doubt, paddle out!

Most people think of surfing only as a summer sport. Nothing could be further from the truth. Actually, the best surf sessions happen during the winter. That is, winter brings some of the biggest swells and most powerful waves of the entire year. You might not get much of a tan on your surfboard during the winter like you would in summer, but winter is even going to bring you more frequent surfable waves. This means you can not only have more fun while surfing during winter, but you can also surf more often.

Wetsuits, Rash Guards, and Booties

But it’s cold! Yes, it is very cold during the winter. The air is cold, the wind makes it even colder, and the water is frigid. That’s why we have wet suits. Wet suits are like extra thick swim suits that cover your whole body. They are designed to keep you warm while you surf, and they’re made to be very elastic so that you’re able to pop up on your surfboard easily.

Wet Suits & Rash Guards

Wet suits are so tight they are really difficult to put on and take off, but the effort is worth the amazing surf sessions you’re sure to get.  Most surfers ease into their wet suits through the winter season. They don’t go from wearing some board shorts to suddenly squeezing into their wet suit. When it starts getting chilly outside, surfers start wearing their board shorts and a rash guard. This is a thin shirt that helps avoid rashes causes by wax on your surfboard; it can also help keep you warm.

Short Wet Suits

When it gets a bit colder, surfers might still wear their board shorts but instead of a rash guard (or rashie) they’ll start wearing a short sleeved wet suit top. As its name implies, this is the top part of a wet suit that has short sleeves. Around this time surfers may also start wearing some short wet suits. These are wet suits that have short bottoms and short sleeves.

As winter progresses, surfers begin wearing wet suit bottoms, which means the full length bottom half of a wet suit. They may or may not wear a top, and their top may be a rash guard or even a short sleeved wet suit top.

Booties

Eventually, you’ll end up wearing a full wet suit. If the water where you surf is cold enough (or if you simply prefer), you’ll want to get some booties. These are basically shoes for your wet suit. They’re really thick and designed to keep your feet warm. The problem with booties is that they’re very prone to having water get in them. They fill up with water, which makes them heavy. This makes it a bit more difficult to pop up on your surfboard. Wet suits also tend to get a bit of water in them. Most of this water seeps in through the top of the wet suit, by your neck. You might want to get out of the water every 45 minutes or so just to drain the water out of your wet suit and booties.

Summer is a very relaxing time to go surfing and you get a nice tan to go with it. But if you’re serious about surfing, you can’t miss out on winter surf sessions; they’re bigger, more powerful, and more fun than any summer surfing you’re likely to find.

Peeing Inside a Wet Suit

Yes, peeing inside your wet suit really does warm you up.

But whatever you do, don’t fart inside your wetsuit!